Buonissimo 2 has breathed new life into the space forever occupied by the once formidable California Cuisine. A culinary mainstay and trendy spot for years, California Cuisine went the way of a bad economy and, let’s face it, a dated approach. It’s not easy remaining relevant for long periods of time, especially with restaurants opening left and right. We do have to say that they did a much better job than most.

The tagliatelle bolognese at Buonissimo 2.

^{Photo by Stephen Persitza}

While the signature Buonissimo makes its home in Torrent, Italy, how great is it that their second location resides on University Avenue in Hillcrest. Nestled amongst eclectic coffee houses, funky cafes, and tiny but packed bars rests the charming and comfortable Buonissimo 2. The European scooter sitting out front along with intentionally cheesy flower pots meld with joyously soulful Italian music spilling out from the venue, tempting you to enter. Take the challenge and you will not be disappointed. Just sit back and let the magic of the evening encompass you.

While the interior of the venue has the same physical layout as its predecessor, the transformation to Italy abounds with basic approaches and a healthy bit of kitsch. For style, behold the authentic, antique distressed rustic tables, chairs, bar and the fun wooden placemats. For kitsch, check out the clothing and chairs (yes, chairs) adorning the walls with dated magazine covers and quirky Pinocchio wooden dolls strewn about in every shape and size. Quaint and peculiar and “where the heck did they get this stuff?” is the best way to describe it. A short, narrow hallway leads into the back room and patio, but we will get to that delightful setting a bit later.

If luck and the universe are in alignment you will hopefully have the captivating Marco, Buonissimos’ general manager, greet you and fawn over you during the evening. Marco drifts effortlessly from table to table and conversation to conversation as if everyone there is a life-long friend. This fun, comfortably dressed host makes you feel right and home as his special guest. Not a shabby way to feel on a Tuesday night, or any night for that matter. You also gotta love the ever-present servers dressed in red and green suspenders (Italian flag colors). There’s that kitsch again.

Nicely prepared bread with olive oil quickly arrives at the table as a pleasant precursor to the night’s festivities. A folded menu loaded with pasta, insalate, antipasti and entrees is delivered in a red labeled paper bag, almost as a gift waiting for you to open. Already the evening has taken on a flow of its own. Being that you are in a traditional Italian restaurant with special flair, allow yourselves to enjoy the menu items without guilt. The gym will still be there in the morning, although you may put a little extra strain on the cross-trainer.

Caution and caloric concern thrown to the wind, we ordered gnocchi di patate del giorno (homemade potato dumplings, tossed with the chef sauce of the day, $15.50) featuring a pesto w/shrimp and one with a creamy sausage sauce. The pesto was wondrously tasty and the combination of lightly textured gnocchi and snappy shrimp with the pesto created a frolicsome gastronomic blend. The sausage came across as almost a biscuits and gravy dish gone wild with the gnocchi substituting for the bread. Not terribly inventive, but filled with zesty flavors and a perfect consistency of gnocchi. This one was a table favorite. Not to be outdone, the delicious regional flair of the Risotto al radicchio e salsiccia (Arborio rice with radicchio and fresh Italian sausage, $16.20) beguiled us with its crunchy deep fried exterior and luscious tomato center. We were told this dish is inspired by old-world farmers who would simply take the rice and combine it with whatever they had available, so every time it could be a different adventure. This version made for quite the ride.

A tray of desserts.

^{Photo by Stephen Persitza}

The fact that there were three of us dining this evening and yet four entrees were ordered shows how fetchingly the dishes were described. Then add the “daily specials” and you’re lost. To satisfy private pasta cravings came the Tagliatelle alla Bolognese (fresh tagliatelle pasta with Bolognese meat sauce, $16.20) and Lasagne all ‘emiliana (lasagna pasta, béchamel sauce, Bolognese sauce, mozzarella and parmesan cheese, $14.95). Both were entrenched in tradition, yet each dish stepped up to the plate with unique seasonings, variety and just good ‘ol yumminess. The tagliatelle was served in a cast iron pot for a fun presentation and heat preservation. Just delightful. The lasagna was quite the piece of pasta, simply abounding with brilliance. The silky smooth pasta gave way to the delicate cheese and sauce flavors. Oh yeah!

The Daily Specials caught our fancy with the capesante alla veneziana con indivia e mandorle (baked jumbo sea scallops with Italian herbs and white wine sauce that comes with a side of endive and almonds salad, $20.50) and the dorso di branzino con olive pinoli e pomodorini (fresh white sea bass in pinot grigio reduction sauce, kalamata olives, cherry tomatoes and pine nuts, $21.95). The scallops were delicately prepared with nice succulent onion and herb accents to take the dish to the next level. The sea bass was a tad overdone but the dish itself just burst with flavor and nuances. All of the dishes were generous in portions with plenty to take home and you gotta love when the chef rings a bell at the kitchen as the dishes are up. Ding ding ding!

Desserts abounded as we sampled on a decadent tiramisu (layers of lady fingers dipped in coffee and mascarpone cheese topped with shaved chocolate, $6.50), Semifreddo al croccantino (semi-frozen gelato-like Italian ice cream with caramelized walnuts and almonds, $6.50) and the cannolo alla Siciliana (Sicilian pastry filled with sweet ricotta cheese and chocolate chips, $6.50). All three were steadfast in their presentations and flavors. From crunchy to soft, from cheesy to chocolaty, you want it, you got it.

So now you’ve had your dinner and if you are like us, the belt feels a little tight at the moment and a place to nap would be nice. Well there is a back patio with benches and cozy chairs and a lounge singer to lull your senses. Add a sip of limoncello and the evening just dashed off into the stratosphere. The singer was part vaudeville, part brashness and all heart. He could belt out tunes with showmanship and swagger. What a perfect way to end a splendid evening with friends.

Buonissimo 2 also has an express lunch special for $13.95 that includes first course, entree and dessert for all of us on the go plus nightly specials like 50 percent off the whole menu (Mondays from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.) and 50 percent off wine bottles (Tuesdays) to make sure your purse strings can match the brilliant food that awaits you. Enjoy (prego)!